Windows to the soul

"Much like 'the eyes are the windows to the soul' so are windows, the soul of a building ."





Since the humble days of living in caves, everyone has needed light and ventilation, and so as human ingenuity progressed, so did home construction techniques and the art and science of window engineering.
The technology of windows has been at the forefront of building developments, ranging from the awe-inspiring stained glass windows set in lead to the now well established hinged wooden casements. Windows have the capacity to radically change the "face" of a building from one of mundane repetition to that of an architectural work of art. Today, windows, and specifically glass, can be so strong that it can be used as a structure in its own right. Thus a brief moment should be spent whenever you are having a window installed to look at the work of your contractor as he adds-on the face new of your house.


It has been my experience that window installations can be quite an intimidating process for the homeowner. With window prices scaling up to the thousands, on the high-end, per window; and the average price for just the installation of the window (not including liner, casing and exterior trim) averaging around 150 dollars per window, it pays greatly to just do it yourself; or at least to know a little about what to look for--if someone else is doing it.
But before we get started with the details of proper window installation, a word of advice. It is a wise step to discuss the upcoming installation with your insurance company. One of the biggest areas of repair we encounter is around windows, so ask specifically what the insurance company is looking for and then relay this information to your contractor if necessary. You do not want to be stuck with any potential financial liability in the future. Also, it is a good move to see if your town or municipality requires an specific installation procedure for the window flashing, as for example Medina, WA does. Lastly, as you follow this procedure keep in mind the good advice I received from my Calculus professor: "In calculus (and in carpentry), like in the culinary arts, there is more than one way to cook a chicken."

Note that this posting will cover the procedures for the total replacement of a window, with one of the same size as that of the previous one. If you are having someone else install your new windows, and only want to verify the quality of their work; scroll to the flashing installation section, which is the most relevant part to the homeowner.






So lets begin.
The average window that you will encounter is going to fall within two categories: with flange and without flange. When you are working to replace any window, the first thing that you want to do is expose the window from the outside. By removing the exterior trim around the window (or in some cases by cutting into the siding panels) you will get a good look into the type of window you are working with. If the window has no flange and it was properly installed (no interior screws with perforations through the window frame) you will simply slide it out at this point, but if the window has flanges, you will remove the nails or screws holding it in place. Once the nails have been removed, carefully extract the window from the opening and properly dispose of it after the fact.

Repairs.
First off, the most iimportant step in this procedure is to measure your windows and your space. Make all demolition and repairs to match the true size of the window, giving yourself 1/2-3/4 " on top and one side of the window to adjust the window. After the sizing, the type of exterior repairs and prep, as opposed to framing and structural, that you do will depend on the type of siding you are installing. If the siding is not being replaced, and you want recessed trim, you would cut into the siding itself to the true length and width of your trim pieces, then slide them snuggly into place. If you are having the siding replaced, then mention your preference to your contractor and he will either install the trim before (for a slight recessed look) or after the siding (for a more pronounced effect). For all other possibilities, you would follow some variation of what is illustrated here.

Prep.
First thing, after the removal of the old window, that you want to do is: to look for, and repair any water damage that you find. After all repairs have been made, (assuming you are setting pronounced trim as mentioned above), you want to fur out the opening to be flush with the trim. This can be done by measuring from the exposed framing to the outer edge of the trim, and from the edge of the trim , that was cut or removed when taking the previous window out, to the edge of the interior framing and cutting it out of 2x4s.

Flashing.
Once the furring out has been finished, you want to apply a tacky flashing membrane. The key to proper installation is to make as few cuts as possible and to layer from bottom to top, stacking on top on each other as you build up. (1) build a pan at the bottom of the window by measuring the bottom length and adding 6-8 in for each side. Fold the flashing in half and apply it to the window frame by carefully removing the non-stick backer. Apply the flashing only a few inches at a time, making sure to split half of the flashing on the framing and the other half on the exterior. Work the flashing from the 6-8in marker on one side, to the opposite side. Once set in place fold the bottom corners against the exterior edge. If cuts had to be made, overlap pieces of flashing to prevent any water from getting in. (2) Measure the sides of the window and cut two strips of flashing to that length. Install them by first folding them in half and working your way down as you stick them into place. (3) repeat the process for the bottom well at the top and you are done. Nicer windows will usually carry their own instructions as to the proper flashing installation procedure they want you to follow. It will be a variation on the above, but remember to go with what your insurance company deems as appropriate.

Caulking.
Following flashing, you want to run an interrupted bead of exterior, window/door installation grade, silicon-caulk. Try to keep the bead as close to the interior edge of the tacky flashing. The purpose is to provide a water barrier between the window and the flashing while allowing for seasonal expansion.





Installing.
For the actual installation part, you will need two people, one working the window from the inside, the other from the outside. A window jig could also be made for single-person installation, but that is a technique best left to seasoned carpenters only.


Once the window has been slid and held in place by the exterior person, the first thing that the interior person wants to do is to identify the high point on the framing. Once that point has been identified a wooden shim should be slid underneath the highpoint and the window itself. Using a level, the interior person should level the base of the window using shims, striving for a perfect leveling of the window (other than being the proper way to install a window, this step makes your life exponentially easier when lining and casing).

Once uniformity has been achieved at the bottom of the windows, the exterior person will secure the original high corner using galvanized nails or screws on the pre-perforated holes. The Interior person will readjust the bottom of the window to a perfect level state. Once achieved, the interior person will shim underneath the transition point (the center column of a double pane sliding window, or the center column of a casing window) to assure consistency of smoothness while opening and closing the window. The exterior person will then nail off the opposite-lower-corner and the center bottom of the window.

If the window was properly built: since the bottom is leveled, the sides should be plumbed. But in carpentry never assume, always double check. If sides are plumb, the next part you want to do is to shim at the top corners, if necessary, to maintain a nice, consistent reveal-line where the sliding part of the window meets the frame of the window. Once achieved the interior person should check to make sure window is both leveled and plumbed. If so, the exterior person can nail off the rest of the window LEAVING the top of the window untouched to allow for seasonal stretching.

Draft Sealing.
The last step prior to lining and casing is sealing for any possible draft openings. Using expanding insulation foam, you want to spray the expanding insulation around the window frame. If the space is to small for the applicator, caulk should be used instead.

That is it!



Remember: Varying windows will require varying amounts of skill and preparation, but they will always be some variation on the above mentioned.

International Style

During the 1920's and 30's there was a movement in the architectural world to categorize what was known as the Modern Movement into a more concrete and encapsulating style. The process led to many spin offs of what we call Modern Architecture. I recently had the pleasure of renovating the bathroom in one such property and hence I thought I would share some pictures from the project, as well as learn a bit about the style in general.

International Architecture, since its inception after the First World War, sought to change what was deemed as architecture. The International style desired instead of continuing what was common practice, buildings made of square or rectangular rooms stacked on top of

one-another or beside each-other, to do away with Nationalism and class-driven affectations. They wanted architecture that reflected any person, and in every culture. This new architecture would be built on axes and flow, openings of space and ample light, all of course making full use of the natural land features. The movement was spearhead by architectural visionaries such as Le Corbusier, a trained Cubist painter, (see chapel at right), now famous, Frank Lloyd Wright (see home bellow), and an avid glass worker and architect Philip Johnson (see glass house).

From the minds of these forward thinkers, buildings began to be seen as volumes of space opening unto bright and modern urban spaces. International architecture was not simply a style but an agency in creating a new society.

International Style could be categorized as a philosophy of architecture, in that they have a set of core believes that dictate the intended aim of the final project. These tenets are (1) the expression of volume rather than mass, (2) balance rather than preconceived symmetry and (3) the dismissal of applied ornamentation. From these precepts a fury of beautiful homes and buildings were constructed, combinations of the traditional and International began sprouting and most relevant to our case regional variations came about. The home I was privileged to work on is Northwest International architecture.

Here are a few shots of the home.